Saturday, March 14, 2009

Rio Gallegos and Points North

Rio Gallegos wasn´t on my original itinerary, or on my revised itinerary, and now that I am here I understand why. It is a rather grim place, with lots of concrete, autopistas, trucks and a few slummy barrios. I am passing the day in a nice enough hostel, where there are several young Argentine men looking for and finding work. Tonight I leave on a bus for the town of Trelew.
To arrive here, I cycled 300km in two days, completing my first real American century (100 miles) from El Calafate to a wide spot in the road called La Esperanza, where I camped next to a gas station. The winds were at my back and at my right side for both days, and though it was better than encountering headwinds it was not always helpful. It was not exactly tranquilo, but I prefer to ride hard for two days and rest on the third than to ride slowly for three days. Eu sou assim, as we said in Portugal: I am like this, or I am that I am (this is the title of Peter Tosh song, so I like this translation better).
There is not much to do here in Rio Gallegos, and I am already ready to leave. I am feeling a bit nostalgic for Patagonia, as this is the southermost point I will reach on this journey. I have been lucky enough to develop bonds with people in El Chalten, and while I am reluctant to head north and away from Patagonia I am content with what I have done and what has been done for me to get here to where I am.
As far as cycling goes, I am not done, only shifting gears a bit. I will take the bus tonight to Trelew, where there is a Paleontology museum, and I hope to see the Dino exhibit tomorrow. Then I will be back on the bike riding past Rawson to the coast, where I will camp on the beach. There are two big penguin colonies to the south from here, and I am going to visit them before I ride back north to Puerto Madryn, Puerto Pyramides and Peninsula Valdes. And then, well, maybe I´ll be ready for the big city after that.

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